The name of the place was Bosa, the river was called Temo. I have never seen a river that was so full of fish - large ones, tiny ones, everywhere you looked there were fish, and in the evening, the surface of the river was criss-crossed by fish that swam around with their heads out of the water. They didn't tell me why they did that (I spent two hours at the riverside with a hydrophone and headphones - the results were disappointing: the fish of Bosa don't talk).
The old town of Bosa, beneath a large castle ruin, is a maze of picturesque cobblestoned paths and colorful little houses. The view from the castle over the beautiful wide valley is definitely worth climbing up there.
In the evening, we found a real good restaurant at the riverside, right opposite the decaying tannery buildings that were one of the sources of Bosa's wealth many years ago.
The next day, on the way to the east, a visit to a medieval church, extramuros ... a friendly dog followed us for a while ... red poppies and hissing crickets in the heat, and a last look back to Bosa.